How to Measure the Value of Your Article Marketing Campaign – Writing-Articles
How to Measure the Value of Your Article Marketing Campaign
It's not enough to scatter your articles across the internet - you've got to measure what you're doing so you can be sure that you're getting value from your effort.Here are some of my preliminary thoughts on what's measurable in regards to article marketing, (and what you measure should depend on your predefined article marketing goals, but you knew that already):Number of new of links to your siteThis is a big one of course, and just about the easiest to measure with a simple "link:" search in the major engines.Since I submitted "Build Links and Your Brand: Article Marketing Delivers" to 8 directories on January 26th Google has logged 24 instances of my article (I did have a little help from search engine expert Andy Beal's mention in his blog), MSN search shows 59 instances and Yahoo has me down for 10.Now, all those mentions aren't links... just instances of my article title.Google currently shows no links to my main blog site. Yahoo and MSN both show 14 to http://articlemarketing.blogspot.com.I'm also currently ranked 3rd in Yahoo for the term article marketing - woo hoo! Not bad for only 3 days. We'll see how long I stay there - things may change dramatically after an update. I'm currently nowhere to be found in MSN. Ditto for Google, except the post from Andy's blog about my article marketing blog that puts me at 4th for "article marketing."To give some idea of scale, here are the number of millions of results for article marketing per engine: 12 million in Yahoo; 17 million in MSN; 27 million in Google. I don't think Article Marketing is a phrase that currently generates much competition.Article submission sites like EzineArticles get the freshbot treatment because of their regularly updated content and I think that speeds indexing.Article submitted 1-26-05, searches conducted 1-29-05.Number of readers/impressionsTo borrow a bit from the world of online advertising you can measure impressions, that is, the estimated number of readers/site visitors who had the opportunity to at least read your article title and, let's hope, associate it with your business name.To get an idea of how many impressions your article may have gotten talk with those who republish your article. If you submit to EzineArticles you can see how many writers and editors have viewed your article's page.It's great to have your impressions high, but it's better to have them targeted to your audience (and by audience I mean customers... here are my thoughts on client as audience). The more care you give your content creation process the more your content will appeal to your target audience.Which brings us to...Placement in previously identified key industry mediaIf at the beginning of your article marketing campaign you identify key industry publications you'd like to be published in... and you get published or don't get published, that's something you can measure.This is more of a branding initiative than a linking initiative, though it can certainly generate at least one solid link. And once your article's been published and your editor says "go" you can submit it to your article submission directories of choice. And then measure links.Lead generation through reader inquiriesThis is a fun one. There are specific industries and products that are likely to sell well through article marketing... namely information products. If your primary goal for article marketing is sales though you should construct your article campaign in a particular way. Many of the same rules still apply, but the strategy needs to be a little different. Let me know if you have questions about creating sales generating articles. And you still have to follow responsible article writing guidelines.Email addresses gathered for newsletter signup/downloads/free serviceYeah you're being published in someone else's email newsletter but that doesn't mean you can't try to drive signups to your own newsletter! We had this happen when I worked at WebProNews, where we published all free content. One author's article marketing strategy focused on driving subscribers to her newsletter. I think, but I'm not sure, that it was Dianna Huff, who specializes in B2B article marketing. As an aside, be sure to check out her site.Pageviews to info pages on your siteIf you link out of your article to more info pages on your site you can measure for an increase in traffic on those pages. Have some kind of call to action on these pages though. Don't just boost page views for the sake of having higher page views. Get them to do something on that page, such as give you an email address or visit your products or services page.Requests from editors for articlesIf it's your goal to have more involvement with your target market then be sure to accept all requests from editors for new articles. In fact, cultivate any relationship with an editor you can. This is one fantastic way of staying in front of your target audience and getting new ideas for articles.How can you increase this likelihood? Contact editors from publications within your target market. In addition, include a mention in your author bio that you'd like to work with editors to help them have happier, more engaged readers.Audience involvement/questionsThis is another fun one, and something I tried to promote during my time at WPN. The level of reader feedback I received led to my creation of the "Ask the Expert" section of WPN (now untended) as well as my proposal for the WebProWorld forums, now with over 50,000 members. (To be fair iEntry had rolled out forums before - they were just scattered across all our publications rather than targetted on the flagship. WebProWorld was definitely a home run.)So if you'd like to establish more of a relationship with the online audience in your publications contact their editor and see if you can field audience questions.What else is measurable?
Those are a few of my thoughts for article marketing measurables. Did I miss any? Let me know your measurable ideas and if I use them in an upcoming article I'll throw you a link with your link text of choice.Want to build links to your site and enhance your brand? Send article marketing questions to GFrench@gmail.com for free article marketing brainstorm, including article topic suggestions and key industry media identification. Garrett French is a search engine marketing copy writer for Websourced and conducts branding and link building research on his article marketing blog. If you wish to publish this article, please retain all links.
Planning Your In-Wall Speaker System – Home-Improvement
Planning Your In-Wall Speaker System
So you've finally decided to get your favorite music throughout your house. What's next? Where do you go from here? That depends upon your requirements and weather this will be an installation in an existing home or a music system in a new construction home.First, you need to decide which rooms you would like to install your speakers. The installation will obviously be much easier during construction than in an existing home. Once you make the decision on which rooms to include, you have two choices; in-wall or in-ceiling.In-ceiling speakers tend to draw less attention to themselves. In all but basic background music applications, in-wall speakers usually sound better, everything else being equal. In-wall speakers have other problems, however. They are usually harder to integrate aesthetically in the room. They also take up valuable wall space that can be used for art or furniture.Typically, round speakers are used for in-ceiling installations and rectangular speakers are used when installing in the wall. Round speakers integrate better with other ceiling fixtures, such as smoke detectors and recessed light cans, which tend to be round as well. In addition, because most round speakers have coaxially located drivers, you are the same distance from both no matter where you are in the room. This leads to more even frequency response throughout the room. Rectangular speakers tend be better suited to in-wall, rather than in-ceiling, applications.It is best to keep the speakers two feet or so from adjacent walls or other boundaries that can cause response problems. Optimally, in wall speakers should be at, or close to, ear level. Place in-ceiling speakers so they are symmetrical with ceiling fixtures and the room.Usually stereo pairs of speakers are used in each room. Another approach that works well is to sum the some signals into mono. You can then run the system in mono for most areas that use in-ceiling speakers. The mono approach allows you to get more uniform coverage, rather than standing under a speaker that is only playing the left channel for example.You can also use one speaker for areas like small bathrooms and still get both channels of the music. There are speakers with dual voice coils and inputs for both the left and right channels on a single speaker that are also used for this type of application. It can be demonstrated that the summed mono approach using a single, standard voice coil speaker usually sounds better, however.Multi-room speaker systems can be set up as single zone or multiple zone systems. In a single zone system, all the speakers play the same source. With a multi-zone audio system, the system is divided into two or more areas that can play different sources. This flexibility is really nice when different occupants want to listen to different music at the same time. For example, with a three zone system, you could listen to three different sources simultaneously in three different areas of your house.With a single zone system, it is still desirable to have independent volume control over each pair of speakers or to turn off any pair completely. This is accomplished by using a speaker level volume control for each room. These are usually a just round knob, although other styles, such as sliders, are used as well.Multi zone systems are usually controlled by some type of keypad, system remote control, or wall mounted touchscreen. Typically, there is one of these control interfaces for each zone. There is an old saying in racing "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?" So it is with multi zone music system controls. Control costs money. How much do you want?A standard knob style volume control is under $100. Step up to a keypad for more control and you are looking at $250 to $500. Touch screen controls offer the ultimate in simplicity and flexibility. In addition, touch screens allow feedback, such as volume, radio station, and music server information, to be displayed on the touch screen. Touch screen controls begin at about $500 and can go to $20,000 each, depending upon size and options. The more sophisticated controls allow you to turn on your music and choose sources from each room. It's as easy as turning on a light.Some of the more advanced controls can operate independently,while some require a central processor. If you are installing a multi zone system, you will need a multi room controller and amplifier. These can be integrated into one component or they can be separate pieces. Prices on these vary widely. It is better for most people to contact a professional custom installer for installation of these type of components.There are a number of decisions to make when planning your in-wall speaker system. Do you want single or multi zone? In-wall or in-ceiling? Both? What type of controls would you like? You can research these questions on your own or consult a qualified professional for assistance. With careful planning you will have a music system you can enjoy for years to come.Steve Faber has almost 15 years in the custom installation industry. He is a CEDIA certified designer and Installer 2 with certifications from both the ISF and THX. His experience spans many facets of the industry, from the trenches as an installer and control systems programmer, and system designer, to a business unit director for a specialty importer of high end audio video equipment, a sales rep for a large, regional consumer electronics distributor, and principal of a $1.5M+ custom installation firm. Steve is currently is senior sales engineer for Digital Cinema Design, a CEDIA member firm in Redmond, WA. He is on the web at The Home Theater and Automation Guide
Removing Your Old Sliding Glass Door – Home-Improvement
Removing Your Old Sliding Glass Door
Last week I explained how to measure your existing sliding glass door so you can order the vinyl replacement door. This week I am going to go over the steps required to remove the old sliding door before installing the new door.First, you have to remove the sliding panel and the stationary panel. The vast majority of doors out there have the sliding panel on the inside half of the track, and the stationary panel is on the outside. Whatever the case in your particular door, the outside panel has to come out first. To remove the fixed panel, you need to remove the sill cap that snaps into the bottom track and runs from the fixed panel to the side jamb where the sliding panel locks. Force a screwdriver into the crease and pry the cap up. Then, look for screws on the inside side jamb holding the fixed panel in place. These screws prevent someone from prying up the sill cap and pulling out the fixed panel in order to gain entry into the home. In addition to the side jamb, be sure to check across the top header and bottom track for screws there as well. Once all the screws have been removed, you need to pull the fixed panel away from the side jamb. You can start by simply grabbing the side rail of the fixed panel and pulling as hard as you can. If you're lucky, the panel will pop free. Then you can lift the panel up as far as it will go into the top channel and swing the bottom away from the track, and remove the panel.Now, I said "if you're lucky", because in most cases the panel will be stuck in the side jamb, the bottom track, or both. Usually, you're going to have to use a pry bar to loosen the fixed panel before it will slide out of the side jamb. Once the fixed panel is out, removal of the sliding panel is usually easier. Just lift up and swing the bottom away from the track, then remove the panel. Sometimes the bottom rollers will prevent the bottom from swinging out of the track. If that's the case, you will need to find the roller adjustment hole in the bottom corners of the sliding panel. Put a screwdriver into this hole and turn the screw counterclockwise to bring the roller as far up into the bottom of the sliding panel as possible. This should allow the slider to come out.Now, you want to remove all the screws from the side jambs, top header, and bottom track. Then, take a pry bar and get it under the bottom track about in the center. Pry up until the track is separated from the floor. The next step will depend on whether your old frame is nailed to the house frame, or simply screwed in. If it's screwed in, then the frame should now be loose in the opening, since you removed all of the screws. You just need to remove whatever inside trim there might be around the door frame. This type of frame should come out. If your door is nailed to the house frame, you will have to do a bit more work. Use a hacksaw to cut the track in half, approximately in the center. Start with either half and raise the cut piece up towards the side jamb until the the track piece separates from the side jamb. Do the same thing to the other half.So, now you have to remove the side jambs. You want to do this without damaging the exterior material that surrounds the door frame. Take a heavy chisel and pound it into the crack between the frame and exterior material, whether it's stucco, siding, etc. Start at the bottom 6 inches first. What you are trying to do is pull the nail fin away from the nails holding it in place. So, once the chisel is pounded through the metal frame, pry away from the side wall. The heavier and longer the chisel, the more leverage you will have. You will hear the frame "pop" free of the nail. There will be several nails holding each jamb in place, so you want to start at the bottom and work your way to the top corner. Once you get the bottom third loose, many times you can grab the jamb with both hands and pull the rest of the nails free as you go up. When you get to the top corner, work the jamb free. Do both jambs, then do the top. Sometimes the top has no nails, or just one in the center, so it will come down pretty easily. Be sure to wear safety glasses and a dust mask when doing this job, especially when removing the top header.At this point you are ready to install the new door. The installation procedure is slightly different, depending on whether you're installing a retrofit style frame or a replacement frame. We will discuss both procedures next week.John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows